Hamilton County Soil and Water Conservation District
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  • Home
  • About
    • About >
      • Staff & Supervisors >
        • Supervisor- Nominee Info Sheets
    • Donate
    • Jobs & Internships
    • Newsletter >
      • News articles
    • Volunteer Opportunities
    • Strategic Plan
  • Programs & Services
    • Ag Stewardship >
      • Agriculture Resources
    • Cover Crop Seed Program
    • Drainage
    • Financial Assistance/Cost Share Programs >
      • Invasives Cost Share
      • Landscape Callery Pear Removal Grants
    • Invasive Species >
      • Invasive Trade In Program
      • Landscape Callery Pear Removal Grants
      • Hamilton County Invasives Partnership
    • Map Resources
    • Spring Native Plant Kit Sale
    • Fall Native Sale
    • Rain Barrel Info & Sales
    • Rule 5 Submission
    • Soil Is Alive: Soil Health Trailer
    • Soil Maps & Surveys
    • Soil Testing
    • Stony Creek Feasibility Study
    • Photo Contest
    • Report a Polluter
    • Tool Loan Program
    • Video Resources
    • Water Resources >
      • Well Capping
      • Well Water Testing
  • Urban Conservation
    • Backyard Conservation
    • Landscape with natives
    • Urban Agriculture >
      • Micro-Irrigation
      • Donate Your Vegetables
      • Garden Resources
    • Creating and Maintaining a Prairie
    • Restoring HOA Native Landscapes
    • Stormwater Landscape Maintenance Training
    • Rain Garden Info
    • Seed pack
    • Tree Info
    • Where to buy native plants & seed
  • Events
    • Workshops & Events
    • Annual Meeting
    • Rain on Main
    • Pay Dirt Hamilton County
    • Past events & recordings
  • Online Store

Hamilton County SWCD News

Paw Paw Bread

8/30/2024

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The Dos and Don’ts of Safe and Effective Herbicide Application: Part 3

8/23/2024

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​Disclaimer: This series is informational only and does not act as a substitute for the Indianan herbicide Applicators Certification. For more information on obtaining an Indianan herbicide Applicator License please see the Office of the Indiana State Chemist. 

Click Here to Read Part 1
Click Here to Read Part 2
Click Here to Read Part 4


Herbicides are vital tools for maintaining healthy gardens and farms, but their potency demands careful handling to ensure safety and effectiveness. This article explores the safety considerations when handling, transporting, storing, and mixing herbicides as well as how to properly clean your equipment after use. All herbicides and additives mentioned below can be purchased at your local farm supply store or online. 

​Mixing Herbicides Safely

  • Read the Label: Always read the herbicide label thoroughly before mixing. The label contains critical information about the correct dosage, safety precautions, and compatible equipment. REMEMBER: The herbicide label is the law. For specific information regarding chemical hazards, first aid, handling, etc. consult the Chemical Safety Data Sheet (SDS).
  • Wear Protective Gear: Different herbicides may require different protection from exposure to chemicals. Consult the herbicide label to determine what protective equipment is needed for your application. General protective gear required includes close toed shoes/boots, long pants, long sleeve shirt, chemical resistant gloves, and safety glasses. Other less common equipment may include protective face masks with respirators or protective face shields.
  • Use a Dedicated Area: Mix herbicides in a well-ventilated, designated area away from pets, children, and susceptible plant life. A clean, stable surface is essential to avoid spills. In the event of a spill, clean-up equipment should be nearby and accessible. More information on this can be found below.​
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The herbicide label provides important information about the safety considerations and uses of an herbicide. The label is the law!
  • Measure Accurately: Use precise measuring tools to ensure you’re mixing the correct amounts. Over-concentration can damage plants and increase toxicity, while under-concentration may reduce effectiveness. A designated, appropriately sized mixing cup is essential for accurate measurements. Depending on the quantity of herbicides being mixed, you may find that a small measuring cup with milliliter markings works best or that a larger cup with ounces, cups, or gallons marked out makes the most sense.
  • Add Water First: When mixing, add roughly half of the total water to your sprayer or mixing container before adding the herbicide. This helps to prevent foaming and ensures a more even mixture.
    • Water used to mix herbicide should be ideally clean well water. If using city water it may be necessary to add chemicals to mitigate far “hard water” or water with higher or lower pH. Continue reading to learn more about additives.
  • Mix Thoroughly: Agitate the mixture well to ensure even distribution of the herbicide. An uneven mixture can lead to inconsistent application and ineffective weed control.
Herbicide Mixing Order
Safe and effective herbicide application depends on applying a chemical that works as it is intended in the proper concentration throughout the entire mixture. When mixing or diluting herbicides from concentrates, follow these steps to achieve best results. Directions listed are for filling the tank to capacity, adjust amounts if not filling to capacity.
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  1. Ensure your spraying and application equipment is clean and maintained (more information below under Cleaning Equipment Safely)
  2. Fill your clean tank between ½ and ¾ full with clean water. If adding a compatibility agent, anti-foaming agent, ammonium sulfates, or other water conditioning agents add at this time. Do not add surfactants at this point.
    1. The most common additive, ammonium sulfate, can help condition hard water for glyphosate (Round Up, etc.) mixtures, increasing the effectiveness of the herbicide. To learn more about ammonium sulfate, read this article from Purdue Extension.
  3. Agitate contents to ensure an even mixture.
  4. Add herbicide required for the desired concentration.
    1. Necessary concentrations are usually listed on the herbicide label for the most common plants that can be treated using the herbicide. Percentages of herbicide are measured using the concentrated form directly from the bottle. I.e. a  1 gallon mixture mixed to 5% concentration would use 6.4 oz. of herbicide concentrate and 121.6 oz. of water/dye/other additives.
  5. Add final additives such as surfactant, marking dye, drift control agents, etc.
    1. Surfactants help reduce surface tension of a liquid, allowing it to more easily spread over the surface of leaves.
    2. Marking Dyes are concentrated dyes used to change the color of your herbicide. Use these to help visualize where herbicides have been sprayed. This is particularly useful in areas with high foot traffic or larger areas that may be difficult to see your progress.
    3. Drift Control Agents are adjuvants that help reduce the proportion of small droplets which are prone to being carried off-target by the wind or air currents.
  6. Agitate contents to ensure an even mixture.
  7. Add the rest of your water and seal tank.
  8. Final agitation to ensure an even mixture. Larger tanks will require more thorough agitation.
  9. Periodically check mixture to ensure there is no separation of chemicals or undissolved solids. 
Storing Herbicides Properly
Using the proper storage methods, herbicides in their concentrated form can retain their potency and effectiveness for 2-5 years. Use the methods below to get the best life out of your herbicides. 
  • Original Containers: Always store herbicides in their original containers with labels intact. This prevents confusion and ensures that you have access to all necessary safety information.
  • Secure Location: Store herbicides in a locked, dry, and cool place, away from food, feed, and water sources. Ensure that the storage area is out of reach of children and animals and not exposed to direct sunlight.
  • Check for Leaks: Regularly inspect containers for leaks or damage. If you find any compromised containers, transfer the contents to a new container, ensuring you also transfer the label.
  • Follow Local Regulations: Adhere to local regulations for storing chemicals. Some areas may have specific guidelines for herbicide storage to prevent environmental contamination.
  • Secondary Storage: Storing herbicides inside a secondary container is an easy way to contain any accidental spills if a container leaks. Cheap plastic totes work amazingly for storage in your garage or for transport to the worksite.
  • Store More Hazardous Chemicals on Lower Shelves: Storing higher risk or hazardous chemicals on lower, easier to reach shelves reduces the risk from dropping containers and the likelihood of a spill.
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Cleaning Equipment Safely
  • Triple Rinse Method: Clean your equipment using the triple rinse method. Rinse the sprayer three times, each time filling it with water, shaking it well, and spraying out the rinse water.
  • Use Cleaning Agents: For more thorough cleaning, use recommended cleaning agents or detergents. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the best results.
  • Dispose of Rinse Water Properly: Never dispose of rinse water near water sources or drainage systems. Apply it to an area where the herbicide was used or follow local disposal guidelines. Water used to clean herbicide can also be stored along with your other chemicals for future mixing and application.
  • Regular Maintenance: Regularly inspect and maintain your equipment. Clean nozzles, filters, and hoses to ensure they are free from residue and clogs.
  • Personal Hygiene: After cleaning, thoroughly wash your hands, face, and any other exposed skin with soap and water. Wash your protective clothing separately from other laundry.​

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  • Maintenance – Equipment maintenance is incredibly important for both your personal safety and environmental safety. Follow the below tips to help maintain your equipment.
    1. Read the Owner’s Manual – Some manuals will contain maintenance suggestions, schedules, etc. They will also contain the specifics for what parts work for your sprayer. Start by reading the manual to understand your specific piece of equipment.
    2. Inspect your Equipment – Before, during, and after your application it is important to ensure your spray equipment is functioning properly. It is good practice to routinely check O-rings, rubber seals, valves, etc. to ensure high quality equipment.
    3. Thoroughly Clean your Equipment – Many herbicides are considered corrosive and can quickly degrade rubber seals. To minimize this, do not allow herbicide to sit in the spray tank for extended periods of time and triple rinse your equipment. Note: After mixing herbicides with water, the effective period is drastically reduced. Lower concentration herbicides lose their effectiveness faster than higher concentration herbicides. For further guidance, consult with the Office of the Indiana State Chemist.
    4. Replace Parts – Replace and repair parts using only manufacturer approved parts. Depending on the brand of your sprayer, there may be many options of cheap knock-off equipment or spare parts. For best results only use parts recommended by the manufacturer.
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  • Spills: Despite all of our best efforts to store and mix herbicides safely sometimes accidents happen. Having cleaning tools nearby helps us to stay prepared for when accidents occur. Spills over certain thresholds may be required to be reported to the Environmental Protection Agency. Read your herbicide label to understand what this threshold is or, when in doubt call the National Response Center (1-800-424-8802). To learn more about herbicide reporting requirements visit the EPA website here.
    1. Wear protective equipment: Before attempting to clean an herbicide spill, put on the necessary protective equipment as listed on the label first such as boots, nitrile gloves, and face masks as necessary.
    2. Soak up herbicide: Soak up any excess standing herbicides. Scott shop towels, universal absorbent mat pads and kitty litter are all great tools to soak up and remove herbicide.
    3. Remove contaminated dirt: If the spill occurred over dirt remove and double bag any dirt contaminated with herbicide. 
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Please send any questions you may have to either Hamilton County Soil and Water or directly to the Office of the Indiana State Chemist.
​
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The Beauty of Native Gardens: An Open House Yard Tour

8/16/2024

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Written by Claire Lane
​Over 80 guests joined us for an ‘open yard’ tour showcasing the beautiful native landscaping at the Foster residence in Westfield on the evening of July 30th.  Attendees saw over 100 specimens of mostly natives and nativars species with some well-behaved non-native and annuals mixed in.  The intent of this yard tour was to show how natives can be used to create a formal, HOA worthy landscape and inspire guests to get started or expand native use on their property. Resources from the event can be found here.
 
The SWCD’s new example landscape plans are another great resource to help you get started. This plan outlines native and nativar plant options for different areas surrounding a typical Hamilton County home.  View the example landscape plans and associated resources here. 
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Need to Know Information for Herbicide Application

8/16/2024

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Written by Jacob Luken
​Whether applying on a ¼ acre lot in the city or on hundreds of acres of farmland or woodland property chances are you will eventually need to apply some form of pesticides to control unwanted plants, insects, and other pests. Pesticides can be one of our greatest tools for plant management - from controlling unwanted weeds between the cracks of the sidewalk to maintaining farm fields or removing invasive species – so it is important to know how to best protect ourselves and our environment from unwanted effects of pesticides.
To address these concerns and help educate homeowners on the considerations of pesticide selection, safe handling, application, and other considerations join Hamilton County Soil and Water for our multi-part blog series: The Dos and Don’ts of Safe and Effective Pesticide Application. If you are planning on applying chemicals or pesticides on your property for any reason, please read this series to learn how to protect yourself and the environment from harm.
Read Part 1 Here!
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Welcome Jamie!

8/16/2024

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​Our new Resilient Indiana Technician, Jamie Davenport, started last month. Jamie is a recent graduate from Indiana University, earning a dual master's degree in environmental science and public affairs. While there, she had unique opportunities to learn more about sustainable agricultural practices by traveling throughout Indiana to learn more about approaches to rotational grazing, cover cropping, and constructed wetlands. She also spent summers working for the World Wildlife Foundation in Portugal or rural villages in West Africa to learn more about their approaches to landscape conservation and restoration. She was also selected to join the university’s research delegation to the UN Conference on climate change (COP28) hosted in Dubai, UAE. There, she studied the potential for soil carbon sequestration both for climate change mitigation and adaptation - concluding that healthier soils with organic matter stores will be integral both as a carbon sink and to ensure that agricultural yields will continue to support our populations.

​​Resilient Indiana Technical Assistance (RITA) is a new program through the Indiana Association of Soil and Water Conservation Districts (IASWCD), with additional support from the Natural Resource Conservation Society (NRCS). Jamie supports 6 counties - Hamilton, Madison, Delaware, Marion, Hancock, and Henry - with their specific needs. Her work will include outreach at agricultural field days and public meetings, technical assistance with land users on climate mitigation management and invasive species removal, conservation planning, engineering surveying, and Conservation Reserve (Enhancement) Programming. She will rotate between her assigned offices to provide assistance regularly and attend monthly board meetings. Additionally, she will participate in IASWCD and NRCS activities and outreach like workshops, CRP initiatives, state meetings, and other public outreach. This is a grant-funded position that will run through 2028 with plans for renewal. Jamie looks forward to learning more about each of her counties and how she can best serve them - especially in bringing over ideas from her districts into others to improve each county’s successes.

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Treating Your Lawn Right this Fall Could Pay Off Big Next Spring!

8/16/2024

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Written by Mark McCauley
​

Fall Fertilization
​

​As we approach the end of summer and the beginning of fall, our minds might be turning to the things we need to do around the home to prepare for winter, but that may not include our lawns. People are prone to think that the grass is done for the year, and now will be going into a dormant period and not need much attention until next growing season. However, does it really stop growing completely during the colder months? In reality, cool season grasses (which account for most lawn mixes locally) do continue to grow underground, even during the winter, although much more slowly. Providing your lawn the right fertilizers it needs in the fall will help it create and store the necessary reserves (carbohydrates) to keep building a healthy root system. Fall fertilization may be far from the minds of many homeowners, but it shouldn’t be. Taking the time to perform some simple fertilizer applications this fall will likely pay off big next spring! Penn State Extension explains it this way: 
​“Lawn fertilizers are often marketed as 'plant food'. Although most people realize that nutrients from fertilizers are required by plants for proper growth and development, they may not realize that fertilizers are not really plant food. Plants make their own food through photosynthesis, a chemical reaction in leaves involving water, carbon dioxide (CO2 ) and light energy. The end products, carbohydrates, are used by plants for energy and growth and are the true plant food.” 
​Fall Weed Control

But what about broadleaf weed control? Could that also be an issue to address in the fall? Aren’t weeds also going into the winter and entering a dormant period? Well, for several problem weeds the answer is no. Some, like Chickweed, germinate as tiny plants under the grass canopy in the fall, and will be there ready to take off growing in full force next spring. In that regard, fall weed control can be a very effective management tool in controlling problematic broadleaves. Applying the right herbicides going into the fall can outright kill the weed, or at least weaken it going into the winter, when it will die from lack of reserves. Kansas State Extension discusses the issue of fall weed control: 
​“Broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, henbit and chickweed all germinate in the cool, moist periods of September and October. They overwinter as small plants no larger than a quarter. Arrival of warm spring weather promotes the weeds’ rapid growth and flowering. Once plants reach the flowering stage, they are practically impossible to control. The advantage of fall control is that the seedlings are not well-established. This is the stage at which control methods are most effective.”  
Resources Available Through Purdue University
Purdue University has some excellent publications to help you manage your lawn. 

Taking Care of Your Yard, The Homeowner's Essential Guide to Lawns, Trees, Shrubs, and Garden Flowers
Lawn Improvement Programs
Maintenance Calendar for Indiana Lawns
Control of Broadleaf Weeds in Home Lawns 
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Fall is Best for Planting Trees and Shrubs

8/16/2024

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Written by Lynsey Johnston 
If you are looking to add more trees and shrubs into your yard, the best time to get started is now ! Take the time leading up to the fall equinox to select the species and varieties that will work best for your space.
Simple planning guide to help you choose your species:
​

1. Determine your soil type to help you understand the rate at which water moves through the soil (infiltration rate). You can do this by conducting an infiltration test. This will be helpful in determining the best trees for a space. 

2. Do a soil test. We can help guide you in the process or even take the samples for you, for an additional fee.

3. Calculate the amount of sun the selected sites are receiving during the summer. If you wait until fall or winter you will not have an accurate assessment as the sun lowers in the sky and the trees lose their leaves.

4. Decide if you want to plant natives, nativars, or non-natives. You obviously won't want to plant invasives, right? Learn more about invasives from the Hamilton County Invasives Partnership at www.hcinvasives.org
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​5. Find a retailer. Great news for you – our native & shrub tree sale is happening just in time for plant planting! Click here to check out our native tree and shrub availability. We are also offering a dozen native flowers and vines this year!
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6. Prep your trees for planting. I recommend fusing mycorrhizal fungi when planting. You can also take a handful of native prairie or woodland soil if you have access and include it in the hole to introduce a healthy microbial community.
Species Suggestions

Understory (dappled light)
  • Shrubs: Common Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), Smooth Hydrangea (hydrangea arborescens), Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), Paw Paw (Asimina triloba), Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago)
  • Trees: Red Maple (Acer rubrum), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Ohio Buckeye (Aesculus glabra)
 
Partial Shade
  • Shrubs: Allegheny Serviceberry (Melanchier laevis), Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), Button Bush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), Smooth Hydrangea (hydrangea arborescens), Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), Paw Paw (Asimina triloba)
  • Trees: Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago), American Basswood (Tilia Americana), Red Bud (Cercis canadensis)
 
​Full sun
  • Shrubs: Button Bush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata), Paw Paw (Asimina triloba), Allegheny Serviceberry (Melanchier laevis)
  • Trees: Shagbark Hickory (Arya ovata), Green Hawthorn (Crataegus viridis), Eastern Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), Red Bud (Cercis canadensis)


Visit our Tree Sale
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Mosquito Bucket of Doom

8/12/2024

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What's the problem?  
Backyard mosquito spraying booms, but may be too deadly via NBC News


How to create a mosquito bucket
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Seasonal Water Quality Reminders

8/6/2024

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Written by David Bradway

Water quality changes to watch for in late summer and early fall


1. Algae
​Algae is an aquatic organism that is present in most water bodies. Increased temperature along with sunlight and excess nutrients (mostly Phosphorous and Nitrogen) can cause algal blooms. You may see algae floating on ponds or covering rocks in streams giving the water a green (or other colors) hue. Some algae can be harmful for humans and animals. If you think you have harmful algae in your lake or pond, contact a water quality professional.
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2. Odor
Summer stratification caused by temperature differences in warm water close to the surface and cooler water deeper in a water body prevents mixing in lakes and ponds. This stratification causes nutrients to remain near the bottom of the water body to be consumed by organisms. As the breakdown of nutrients and dead organisms occurs, oxygen is depleted. This anaerobic digestion of nutrients results in hydrogen sulfide gas. When temperatures fall and the water can once again mix, this gas is released resulting in a “rotten egg” smell.

3. Stratification & Turnover
When temperatures are more constant in the summer, water in lakes and ponds will naturally create different zones based on temperature. This is called stratification. When temperatures drop, the water in lakes and ponds cools and requires less energy for mixing. This mixing, also called turnover, can increase oxygen levels by exposing more water to the atmosphere. If a large portion of oxygen in a lake or pond has been depleted during summer stratification, this mixing could dilute the already low amount of oxygen in the water. (Stratification and turnover also happen in winter and spring respectively.)

4. Fish Kills
Fish need dissolved oxygen to breathe. When the temperature of water goes up, the capacity for dissolved oxygen in water goes down. This drop in oxygen can cause susceptible fishes to die. Likewise, when turnover occurs, oxygen can be diluted to unsafe levels for susceptible fishes. 
Staff at the Hamilton County SWCD can assist you with info and suggestions for your water quality concerns including site visits, assessments, and well water testing. Stop by our office or contact us at [email protected]
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Gardening with Medicinal Natives

8/1/2024

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Written by Lynsey Johnston
​
Long before
Colonel Eli Lilly stepped onto the pharmacy scene, humans were creating medicine from plants using knowledge passed down from generation to generation.  Using plants as medicine isn’t exclusive to humans. Animals have also been found to self-medicate. Scientists, and probably you, too, have observed this behavior. Some examples of this are dogs eating grass or rabbits lining their nests with herbs. Self-medication in animals is known as zoopharmacognosy and it is used as both preventative and therapeutic. Ready to start your own “FARMacy” for you or your pets? 
 
​
Do your research. 
Check out the lists below to learn how you can grow a piece of history, enhance the health of your local ecosystem, support your health, and add beauty to your space!  

My favorite way to start a medicinal garden is to make a list of the ailments that come up most frequently in our household and find the corresponding plant support. As an example, if you are interested in supporting your immune system, you may add echinacea to your gardens.  

The simplest way to start your herbal journey is with teas. Herbal teas are also known as “hot infusions”. The infusion process helps extract the beneficial components of the herbs (plants). Depending on the herb, a tea can be made of dried plant material or fresh and can be comprised of one or multiple herbs.  
 
Native medicinal plants and their practical uses 

Native medicinal plants for full sun: 
  • Bergamot (Monarda sp.) 
Practical Uses – antiseptic, anesthetic, and anxiolytic (anti-anxiety) 
  • Goldenrod (Solidago sp.) 
Practical Uses – diuretic, antiseptic, joint pain, anti-fungal, treatment of seasonal allergies 
  • Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) 
Practical Uses – cosmetic skin toner, anti-inflammatory, immune stimulant  
  • Fireweed (Chamaenerion angustifolium) 
Practical Uses – antifungal, anti-inflammatory, healthy gut support 

Native medicinal plants for part sun: 
  • Lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis) 
Practical Uses – wound healing, respiratory ailments, mind diuretic, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial 
  • Short’s Goldenrod (Solidago shortii) 
Practical Uses – diuretic, antiseptic, joint pain, anti-fungal, treatment of seasonal allergies 
  • Blue Vervain (Verbena hostata) 
Practical Uses – pain of rheumatism, treatment of cold and flu, speed healing of wounds 
 
Native medicinal plants for shade: 
  • Lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis) 
Practical Uses – wound healing, respiratory ailments, mind diuretic, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial 
  • Bluestem Goldenrod (Solidago caesia) 
Practical Uses – diuretic, antiseptic, joint pain, anti-fungal, treatment of seasonal allergies 
  • Black Cohosh (Actaea racemose) 
Practical Uses – hormone balancing for women, anti-anxiety, osteoporosis,  
 
Many of these plants can be found at one of the great native nurseries in the state. You can find a list of native nurseries here.  

**This article is purely educational. Hamilton County Soil & Water Conservation does not to advise or recommend herbs for medicinal or health use. It is advised that a health care provider be consulted before pursuing any herbal treatments. 
 
Sources: 
https://www.nps.gov/glac/learn/education/native-american-plant-use.htm#:~:text=Nonetheless%2C%20they%20made%20use%20of,sages%2C%20and%20many%20other%20plants 
untitled (imhm.org) 
Pharmacy - indyencyclopedia.org 
PowerPoint Presentation (indiananativeplants.org) 

Blog by Lynsey Johnson (SWCD Volunteer Coordinator, HC Master Gardener, and permaculture consultant)
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