The Hamilton County SWCD is governed by a board of five supervisors who represent the residents of Hamilton County regarding conservation. Board members serve a three-year term before they are either up for re-election or re-appointment. Three supervisors are elected while two are appointed.

Warren Sarber has been a fixture of the Hamilton County SWCD Board of Supervisors since 2010 and has decided to resign to allow his position to be filled with a new person to represent county residents. Warren was a teacher at Hamilton Heights High School for 16 years. He participated in FFA, worked with farmers, young and old, and supported 4-H. Conservation practices utilized by Warren include grass waterways, filter strips, and minimum tillage. Warren also worked for a farm and seed operation for 27 ½ years. Warren served as treasurer of the SWCD Board for 8 years.

Throughout his tenure on the SWCD board, Warren has been a dependable and consistent advocate for the SWCD.  Warren is quick to support new ideas and programs and is a steady supporter of the SWCD staff.  Warren knows just about everybody, and his connections and knowledge of the agricultural community in the county proved valuable again and again. His dedication to celebrating the conservation and life wins of the SWCD employees has been appreciated and contributed to a positive and productive staff.  As treasurer, Warren was always just a call or text away. 
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The SWCD is so thankful for Warren’s fourteen years of dedicated service to the people and natural resources of Hamilton County.  

​Cooler weather is fast approaching, which means it is time to look ahead in your gardens. Fall is a perfect time to assess your mulch needs in the landscape and gardens. Bare soil is OUT. Covered soil in IN. Do you have at least 2-3 inches of mulch around your plants to help them survive the freeze/thaw cycles of our Midwest winters? 

Contrary to what many people think of when they hear the word mulch, woodchips are not the only type of mulch. Mulch is any natural or synthetic material that covers the soil. Compost, straw, shredded wood, shredded or composted leaves, newsprint, landscape fabric/geotextile, plastic, wool, living plants, plant material, and rocks are all examples of “mulch”.
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Living mulch deserves a little more attention than we tend to give it. The concept of living mulch entails using plants to cover the soil instead of, or in addition to, the mulch options listed above. The best living mulches fill in a space, create wildlife habitats, reduce weed pressure, and create a mini ecosystem within the greater ecosystem.  Monoculture mulch options include strawberries for full or partial sun or wild ginger, Asarum canadens, for shady areas. Biodiverse plant species planted densely versus the standard sparse landscape plantings is also considered a living mulch as it regulates soil temperature, reduces weed pressure, creates a more diverse wildlife habitat, helps with water infiltration, and reduces runoff. Choose well-behaved species for smaller gardens if the goal is to keep the design intact over time. For larger gardens or more informal spaces where the goal is to fill in organically, a mix of well-behaved and species that will fill in over time are great choices to include in a design. 

Aside from aesthetics, do you know why we mulch? Below is a list of reasons why mulch (e.g., covering the soil) is so important!
Using proper mulching practices can:

1. Improve plant productivity and health
2. Conserve water by reducing irrigation needs
3. Stabilize soil temperatures
4. Prevent heaving from freeze/thaws
5. Reduce and prevent soil erosion
6. Reduce fertilizer and/or nutrient leaching
7. Reduce the spread of soilborne pathogens on susceptible plants (e.g., tomatoes)
8. Increase organic matter in the soil 

​The depth of the mulch depends on your goals, the type of mulch and the location. When mulching a landscape bed, the goal is usually aesthetic along with moisture retention, soil temperature stabilization and weed control. In a landscape application, a 2–3-inch depth is sufficient. Mulching prevents weed seeds that are in the soil from germinating. It does not prevent weed seeds dropped on the surface of the mulch from germinating, so some weeding is always necessary. Mulch should always be kept around 3-6 inches from the base of any plant.
When mulching an edible garden, it is important to select the right mulch for the plant and the season. If you are trying to warm the soil, a darker mulch is ideal. If you are trying to cool the soil, select a lighter mulch, like straw.
Interested in learning more about mulching practices, check out the Natural Resources Conservation Service’s document on Mulching for Small Farms and Gardens. 

https://www.hutton.ac.uk/sites/default/files/files/Soils-A5-booklet.pdf
Conservation Practice Standard Mulching (Code 484) (usda.gov)
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Winter plant identification offers a fresh way to explore familiar landscapes, focusing on subtle details like structure and texture rather than leafy foliage. Start with the bark—its texture can be smooth, deeply furrowed, or even peeling, offering valuable clues that remain visible all winter. Look closely at branch patterns; some trees, like maples and ashes, have opposite branching, while others, like oaks and elms, are alternate. Buds provide additional hints, so bring a hand lens to inspect their size, shape, and arrangement. Study the silhouette of trees and shrubs from a distance, as their shape can help identify species. Bright winter colors, like the red of dogwoods or the yellow of willows, are also helpful. Finally, pay attention to any remaining fruits or seed heads, like those of American beech with its golden-brown leaves, or the bright berries of winterberry. With a field guide and patience, you can uncover Indiana’s subtle winter beauty through the quiet art of plant identification.

Take some time this Winter to view your local parks in a different lens - one unobstructed by the dense cover of leaves. The below resources will help you get started on your journey of winter plant identification.

• Purdue Extension Plant ID
• Morton Arboretum Winter Tree Identification (online and in person)
• Morton Arboretum Basic Plant Identification (An introduction to botanical terms)
• University of Maryland Extension Winter Tree ID Guide
• Botany In a Day - Thomas J. Elpel
• Winter Tree Finder - May Theilgaard Watts & Tom Watts

Disclaimer: This series is informational only and does not act as a substitute for the Indiana Pesticide Applicators Certification. For more information on obtaining an Indianan herbicide Applicator License please see the Office of the Indiana State Chemist. 

Click Here to Read Part 1
Click Here to Read Part 2
Click Here to Read Part 3
 
Pesticide and herbicide applications play an important role in managing pests and maintaining plant health. However, improper application can result in off-target impacts—where chemicals drift or move to unintended areas, harming non-target plants, wildlife, and even human health. By using safe application methods and effective spray techniques, we can minimize these risks while achieving optimal results. The following guidelines and considerations will help make your next herbicide application a success.
 
Choose the Right Equipment

Nozzle Selection – Sprayer nozzles can produce different spray shapes and characteristics.  Nozzles that produce larger droplets are less likely to drift than those that produce finer droplets. Drift-reducing nozzles are designed specifically to help minimize off-target movement.

Pressure Settings - Keep your sprayer at the lowest pressure that still provides good coverage. Higher pressure can create fine mist droplets that are more susceptible to drifting in the wind.

Application Method - Your application methods may vary depending on factors such as environmental conditions, target species, plant density, proximity to water or sensitive habitats, and the size of the target area. This variation can also affect the equipment required. Methods like foliar treatment with a backpack sprayer, cut-stump application, hand-wicking, high-pressure spraying, and others each have specific tools, skills, and approaches. For assistance in determining the most appropriate method for your needs, consider reaching out to your local Soil and Water Conservation District (SWCD) or Extension representative for a site-specific recommendation.

Applicator Type - Herbicide applicators come in many shapes and sizes, from Buckthorn Blasters which gently paint herbicide onto cut stems and small surfaces to hand-held sprayers, backpack sprayers, or high pressure power sprayers that can carry many gallons of herbicide and dispense them in short order. Understanding the scope of work, your skillset, and target species is essential to determining which sprayer you should use. If you are doing a cut-stump herbicide treatment on a relatively small area of land (less than an acre), consider using a buckthorn blaster or hand-held sprayer. For larger properties or for a more versatile approach a backpack sprayer might be a good investment, and in extreme cases of widespread dense invasive coverage it may be useful to buy or rent a high-pressure power sprayer. These are just a few of the more common herbicide applicator types and there are a wide variety of options available for specialized uses - to learn more about what tools are appropriate for your property, contact your local SWCD or Extension office. 

Conclusion: When used properly and responsibly, herbicide application can be one of our greatest tools for invasive plant management and control of unwanted weeds. By taking a site-by-site approach to management strategies we can maximize our efforts while minimizing negative effects of herbicide application. For assistance with choosing herbicides, understanding application method, purchasing the right equipment and more contact your local Soil and Water Conservation District or Extension Office. ​

How to Harvest and Spread Milkweed Seeds
Milkweed is a crucial plant for monarch butterflies, as it serves as the only host plant for their caterpillars. If you're looking to support monarch populations, collecting and spreading milkweed seeds is a simple and rewarding way to help.

When to Harvest Milkweed Pods
Milkweed pods are typically ready for harvest in the fall, between late September and early November, depending on your location. The pods are ready when they turn brown or gray and start to split open at the seam. Inside, you'll find the fluffy "silk" attached to the seeds. To ensure the seeds are mature, wait until the pod opens naturally, or give it a gentle squeeze—if it pops open easily, it's ready.

How to Collect Milkweed Seeds
When collecting, grab the entire pod and place it in a paper bag or breathable container. Be mindful not to take too many pods from any single area—leave some for natural dispersal and wildlife. Once you've collected the pods, open them and separate the seeds from the fluff. This can be tricky, but placing the pod contents in a paper bag and shaking vigorously can help loosen the seeds. Another method is using a screen or colander to sift out the seeds.

How to Spread Milkweed Seeds
There are a couple of ways to spread milkweed seeds. You can plant them in your own garden or distribute them in natural areas where milkweed is needed. For successful germination, milkweed seeds require cold stratification, which mimics winter conditions. You can sow seeds outdoors in late fall or early winter to allow this natural process. If starting seeds indoors, place them in a damp paper towel in a plastic bag and refrigerate for 30-60 days before planting.
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Things to Consider

• Ensure you're spreading seeds from native species of milkweed, as some non-native varieties can become invasive or less beneficial to monarchs.
• Avoid areas with heavy herbicide or pesticide use.
• If planting in your yard, choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil.
• Be patient! Milkweed takes time to establish but will reward you with beautiful blooms and essential habitat for monarchs and other pollinators.
• Don't take milkweed pods from pubic or private property without the landowner/land manager's permission.
• Don't take all the pods from one area. Leave some to naturally open and reseed themselves.
  
  

By collecting and spreading milkweed seeds, you can play a part in supporting monarch butterfly conservation. Happy harvesting!

More info:
Harvesting Milkweed Seed: A Pod and a Plan by the Xerces Society.
BACK IN THE DAY WHEN PICKING MILKWEED WAS A PATRIOTIC PURSUIT - Wisconsin DNR