​Spring has arrived! Things are certainly greening up, and gardeners everywhere are beginning to think about what we want to plant and what soil preparations may be needed.

One important preparation is to have your soil tested, especially if it has been a few years since the last test.  Depending on the “crop” you intend to grow (vegetables, flowers, trees, lawn), you may need to apply certain amendments to create the ideal growing conditions. A healthy plant is more productive and resilient to adverse conditions (weather, disease, harmful insects, competition from weeds) when it is in the correct soil conditions. 

Taking a soil sample for testing is pretty simple. The full instructions can be found on our Soil Testing Webpage. 
Basically, you need to obtain a representative sample for the area you want to test, whether that be a vegetable garden, a lawn, a shrub bed, etc. To get a representative sample, take several samples from your testing area and thoroughly mix them in a clean pail or bucket to create your representative sample or "average" soil for your yard.

Once a soil sample is obtained and mixed, bring 2 cups of the mixed soil to our office, where we will label it and send it to the lab.  Results are usually available within about 4 days, and those can be emailed directly to you. 

What you will receive is a list of the current nutrient levels, the pH (how acidic or alkaline your soil is), organic matter content, and a few other things (for which an explanation sheet will be provided).  You will also receive recommendations on what nutrients to apply (dependent on your intended “crop”), how much of each nutrient, how to adjust the pH if needed, and when to do all of this. 

Our Basic Test - $35 includes organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, CEC, pH, and buffer pH.  Our Complete Test- $45 includes the Basic Test plus conductivity, boron, copper, iron, manganese, sulfur, and zinc. 

If you are interested in completing a test this spring, or any other time of the year, just follow the directions on our website and submit a sample to our office.  We will be happy to help.

Other herbaceous invasive species (herbaceous refers to anything that does not have woody stems.) to look out for in the summer include Poison Hemlock, Canada Thistle, and Teasel. These plants are aggressive and sweep through prairies, wood lines, and even our lawns and neighborhood common areas. Left unmanaged, they can quickly form dense stands that crowd out native vegetation, reducing habitat quality for pollinators and wildlife. Many of these species also produce abundant seed or spread through underground root systems, making early detection and control especially important to prevent long-term infestations. 

For HOAs, homeowners, and land managers timing and technique are essential. Mechanical control methods such as mowing before flower and seed production can help keep these infestations from spreading. Over time, repetitive mowing throughout the season may even exhaust the plant’s root system and kill it. For larger infestations, areas where mowers cannot go, or for more aggressive control, herbicide application may be the most practical option.  As always, follow the label requirements – an important thing to look for with many of these species is an herbicide that is rated for aquatic purposes to reduce the likelihood of negative effects on our ponds, rivers, and streams.
 
With any invasive species control, but especially grasses and herbaceous plants, consistency is key. A single season of control will not eliminate the plants, but repeated efforts year after year will steadily reduce their presence and provide space for our native plants to take hold. Monitoring treated areas later in the summer and into the fall can help catch regrowth or late bloomers and aid in strategizing for next year’s maintenance.

And finally, don’t overlook the importance of restoration. Many of these herbaceous plants grow in thick stands that, once removed, will leave a bare spot that may need to be filled with beneficial plants or else invasive species will move right back in. Healthy, diverse plant communities are one of the best defenses against future invasions. 

​Back to the seeds. Here is what I saw when I cut open 12 seeds (one from each of 12 trees). Five were “spoons”, four were “forks”, and three were “knives”. So how do we interpret that, according to old folklore? Spoons indicate a snowy winter (think of it as a tiny snow shovel). Forks indicate a milder winter. Knives indicate a harsh/cold winter (think of it as cold wind, cutting like a knife). So, what can we take away from these 12 seeds?

​Do trees and other plants get thirsty in the winter?  Well, it depends on the weather conditions, but generally, yes, especially newly planted trees. Older established trees have a more extensive root system and are more resilient to dry winters. Since we recently had a tree sale this past fall, I will concentrate on “new” trees as opposed to older established trees, however even older trees can experience winter drought issues. 

Although trees go dormant during winter months, their root systems still need adequate moisture and can suffer from lack of it. Regarding evergreen trees, which keep their needles throughout the winter, watering can be even more important, as they lose moisture through their needles faster than deciduous trees, which lose their leaves in the fall.
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So, when should you consider watering?  Well, you should water your newly planted trees regularly up until freezing temperatures. Then also about 2 times per month during the winter if there is no snow cover on the ground or little precipitation.  It is also recommended that you water on days when the temperature is at least 40 degrees (with no snow or ice around the base of the tree) and do so in the morning so the tree roots have time to absorb the moisture before temperatures potentially drop back into the freezing range at night.  If it is a windy, dry winter, this is even more critical.  Trees that have experienced winter dryness may still look normal the next spring, but the damage may become apparent later in the summer with dieback of branches.

​Mulching with a good organic material will also help your new trees conserve moisture going into the winter, and weather the hard freezes better too.  However, keep in mind that mulch should not be piled up around the base of the tree like a small volcano, but more like a flat doughnut shape, leaving a “hole” (or space) around the base of the tree.  Stacking mulch up against the bark of the tree, which is meant to be above ground, can encourage disease and pest problems which can more easily enter the bark than the root system.

You may find it suitable to carry water to your trees, but a hose may be easier if you have access to it.  Laying a soaker hose around the base of the tree is also an option, but whatever hose you do use, remember to drain it and put it away, as frozen hoses are a pain to deal with.

So far this winter we have seemed to have quite a bit of moisture, so watering may not be a need in your location yet, but that could change quickly.  One method you could use to check soil moisture is to dig a small hole down at least 2 inches within the “dripline” (diameter of the crown spread) of the tree and feel the soil.  If is feels damp, the tree should be fine, but if it feels dry, then watering might be needed.
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I know gray wintery days might not seem like the time to water, but if it is a dry ground, windy type of winter, it could be very important.  You invested time and money in your new trees, so be sure to take the necessary steps to protect that investment.