Diane Turner, Conservation Technician and Outreach Assistant

Autumn leaves don’t have to become trash. On the contrary, they easily can be turned into valuable soil-enhancing organic matter. For many urban dwellers, who already have their yard waste picked up by the city, this service is likely to continue. Many communities compost their leaves and make the finished compost available to their citizens. Compost improves soil aeration, moisture retention and drainage, and nutrient-holding capabilities.

For those who do not have the luxury of yard waste pick up, there are several ways to manage tree leaves at home. Green-thumbed gardeners long have known the value of recycling plant material. Dry leaves can be plowed or tilled under in the vegetable or annual flower bed in fall to provide a source of organic matter. Shredding the leaves first will speed the breakdown so that the leaves will not be visible by spring. Be sure to mix the leaves into the soil, rather than leaving them on top through the winter, to avoid keeping the soil too cold and wet to work in the spring.

Tree leaves can be recycled directly on the lawn. Use your mulching mower or shredder/vacuum to break dry leaves up into smaller pieces. A mulching blade will speed this process, but even a standard blade will do an adequate job. For large leaves like maple and sycamore, it may take several passes to get a finely shredded product. Once the leaves are pulverized, they will break down quickly. A fall application of nitrogen fertilizer (about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet) will help speed decomposition of the leaves and also will benefit the grass plants.

Fall leaves also make great composting ingredients, especially when mixed with green trimmings and grass clippings. Again, the smaller the pieces, the faster they’ll break down, so shred or chop dry leaves before adding them to the compost pile. If you don’t have green trimmings or grass clippings, add a source of nitrogen to the leaves, such as dry cow, horse, sheep, or poultry manure. The nitrogen is needed by the microorganisms that break down the carbon in plant materials. Add a sprinkling of soil or finished compost to introduce a source of the microorganisms, and water just enough to moisten. The compost will heat up in the center as it breaks down. Stir the contents occasionally to add air and allow for uniform heating. Generally, the more often you turn the pile, the faster you’ll get a finished product. Compost is ready to add back into the garden when it looks uniformly dark and crumbly.
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Last, but not least, shredded leaves can be used as a winter mulch to protect tender perennials through the coming harsh weather. Shredding the leaves will help prevent them from packing down as they get wet and smothering the plants that they are supposed to protect. To provide winter protection, apply a 3-6 inch layer of shredded leaves over the top of tender perennials after several hard freezes. The goal of winter mulch is to keep plants dormant through the winter, so it must be applied after the ground is cold and plants are fully dormant. The timing of application will vary from year to year with the weather, but generally will be appropriate sometime between the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays.
Excerpts taken from the Much Ado About Leaves by Rosie Lerner, Purdue Consumer Horticulture Program.  

​Landowners may grant conservation easements out of a personal desire or under a public policy to keep specific land in its current use, preventing its further development. In other words, a conservation easement is a legal agreement to stop an area of land from being developed in the future.  Also known as a conservation restriction, or conservation agreement, a conservation easement is a voluntary, legal agreement that limits uses of the land in order to protect its conservation values. However, it has become the policy in many states including Indiana to preserve lands indefinitely, not only for recreation, maintenance of wildlife, and scenic value, but also for maintenance of agriculture and of a way of life. One creative use of an easement is the preservation of natural resources and wildlife. If you have a piece of land that is loved “as-is” and you want to keep it that way for your kids, grandkids, and the animals who call it home, a conservation easement may be something to consider. An easement stays with the title to the property, which can allow the property to remain in private ownership and to be used for purposes consistent with the conservation values of the property. An easement can also be a recorded land donation to a 501 (C)(3) trust that sets out a number of future-use restrictions to protect and conserve natural resources, including native wildlife. The terms of the easement remain intact if the property is sold or bequeathed, thus requiring all future owners to abide by the terms of the agreement. Indiana law was modified to permit the establishment of conservation easements to last forever. However, some types of easements are only for specific timeframes.

There is significant benefit to considering an easement both financially and for conservation purposes. Donated land into an easement, can benefit the donor as they are then entitled to an income tax benefit for their charitable contribution, which can be a significant value. There are three other types of potential tax savings associated with donating a conservation easement: real property tax, federal gift and estate tax, and an estate tax exclusion.  The Internal Revenue Code provides that gifts for a “conservation purpose” of “qualified real property interests” to a “qualified organization” are deductible for federal income, gift, and estate tax purposes. Another feature in the tax law allows for an additional exclusion of land value from an estate tax estate under limited circumstances.
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Conservation easement options are available in many different methods depending on the land management and goals of the land you are considering placing into an easement. Land trusts and other 501 (C)(3) entities exist in Indiana for acquiring and holding land with your easement restrictions being honored, while other easements are for land that is privately held and sold or turned over to your children. The following programs are available from local, federal and state partners.

Fall Fertilization

As Fall has arrived our minds might be turning to things we need to do around the home to prepare for winter, but that may not necessarily include our lawns.  People are prone to think that the grass has done its thing all year, and now will be going into a dormant period and not really need much attention until next growing season …Spring.  However, does it really stop growing completely during the colder months?  In reality, cool season grasses (which account for most lawn mixes locally) do continue to grow underground, even during the winter, although much more slowly.  Providing your lawn the right fertilizers it needs in the Fall will help it create and store the necessary reserves (carbohydrates) to keep building a healthy root system, one of the keys to a beautiful resilient lawn next Spring. Penn State Extension explains it this way; “Lawn fertilizers are often marketed as 'plant food'. Although most people realize that nutrients from fertilizers are required by plants for proper growth and development, they may not realize that fertilizers are not really plant food. Plants make their own food through photosynthesis, a chemical reaction in leaves involving water, carbon dioxide (CO2 ) and light energy. The end products, carbohydrates, are used by plants for energy and growth and are the true plant food” (https://extension.psu.edu/the-cool-season-turfgrasses-basic-structures-growth-and-development#:~:text=Roots%20of%20cool%2Dseason%20grasses,the%20summer%20and%20winter%20months).   Fall fertilization may be far from the minds of many homeowners, but it shouldn’t be.  Taking the time to perform some simple fertilizer applications this Fall will likely pay off big next Spring !  Completing a soil test to determine nutrient needs is also a good idea.  You don't want to overfertilize as that can lead to water quality issues in storm water runoff.  Information about soil testing can be found on our website at: https://www.hamiltonswcd.org/soil-testing.html

Fall Weed Control

But what about broadleaf weed control?  Could that also be an issue to address in the Fall?  Aren’t weeds also going into the winter and entering a dormant period?  Well, not actually for several problem weeds.  Some, like Chickweed, germinate as tiny plants under the grass canopy in the Fall, and will be there ready to take off growing in full force next Spring. In that regard, Fall weed control can be a very effective management tool in controlling problematic broadleaves.  Applying the right herbicides going into the fall can outright kill the weed, or at least weaken it going into the winter, when it will die from lack of reserves.   Kansas State Extension discusses the issue of fall weed control: “Broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, henbit and chickweed all germinate in the cool, moist periods of September and October. They overwinter as small plants no larger than a quarter. Arrival of warm spring weather promotes the weeds’ rapid growth and flowering. Once plants reach the flowering stage, they are practically impossible to control. The advantage of fall control is that the seedlings are not well-established. This is the stage at which control methods are most effective”  (https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/weeds/broadleaf-control.html ). ​

Good Resources Available Through Purdue University

See links below for excellent publications to help you manage your lawn. 
Taking Care of Your Yard, The Homeowner’s Essential Guide to Lawns, Trees, Shrubs, and Garden Flowers H0-236-W file:///T:/My%20Documents/Lawn%20Care/HO-236-W.pdf 
Lawn Improvement Programs AY-13-W file:///T:/My%20Documents/Lawn%20Care/ay-13.pdf 
Maintenance Calendar for Indiana Lawns AY-27 file:///T:/My%20Documents/Lawn%20Care/ay-27-w.pdf 
Control of Broadleaf Weeds in Home Lawns AY-9-W file:///T:/My%20Documents/Lawn%20Care/ay-9.pdf  ​

Did you know that Hamilton County Soil and Water Conservation District is one of the eight Indiana agencies and organizations who share the common goal of promoting conservation in the Indiana Conservation Partnership?  The agencies have agreed upon the mission to provide technical, financial and educational assistance needed to implement economically and environmentally compatible land and water stewardship decisions, practices and technologies. 

The primary customers of the partnership are Indiana’s Farmers who are recognized as national leaders in our collaborative efforts to incorporate soil health systems into conservation planning, farm management and educational activities.  The primary focus on implementing a soil health strategy has had tremendous success in helping farmers voluntarily address many of Indiana’s primary resource concerns.  

The full list of partners includes:
• Indiana Association of Soil and Water Conservation Districts and our 92 SWCDs
• Indiana Department of Environmental Management
• Indiana Department of Natural Resources
• ISDA Division of Soil Conservation
• Purdue Cooperative Extension Service
• Indiana State Soil Conservation Board
• USDA Farm Service Agency
• USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service

The partners provide leadership within Indiana on natural resource conservation issues. This innovative group is dedicated to land and water stewardship vision assistance that will improve the water quality of Indiana’s streams, rivers, and lakes.

For more information on the Indiana Conservation Partnership or the agencies and organization involved, go to http://icp.iaswcd.org/.

Taylor Wilson, Urban Conservation Technician
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English ivy, or Hedera helix is an evergreen vine found in landscaping, yards, and invasively creeping across forest floors. This plant originates in Europe and was brought over to North America in the 1700s by colonial settlers. English ivy is an aggressive invader of or native forests, so it is imperative that we manage it. Uncontrolled, English ivy outcompetes and covers the native understory and climbs trees, eventually killing them.

English Ivy is a hardy vine and usually has a long lifespan. It can grow in a variety of soil types, sun-shade, and withstand periods of drought. Although the vine can cover vast areas of ground, its shallow root system makes it a bad ground cover to prevent erosion and can even increase erosion issues on slopes where it is the only plant growing.

Identification:
Now is a great time to identify English ivy as it stays green while everything else has gone dormant for the winter. The leaves alternate on the stem, are waxy, and are usually green with white veins. The leaves have variable forms, usually being more lobed when they are younger and maturing into a broader, unlobed leaf. This vine produces small round clusters of yellow-green flowers on the end of mature vines, and occasionally in the middle of the vine. These fruits are eaten by birds, spreading the seeds into wild areas. Although the fruit is consumed by birds, it doesn’t hold much value to their diet, and can even make them temporarily sick due to the toxic glycoside hederin, which causes GI upset.
 
Control:
Depending on the severity of the situation, different control methods may be ideal. Manual removal is a great option, especially for smaller patches in a landscaping bed, yard, or elsewhere. Manual removal is made much easier due to the shallow root system of this plant. Like with any plant, it is key to remove as much of the root as possible when manually removing. This can quickly become labor intensive in larger areas. Additionally, removing large areas of English ivy can leave large patches of disturbed bare soil. This is bad for soil health and erosion and is a welcome invitation for more invasives to come back and grow. If removing a large area of English ivy have a replanting plan or erosion control plan before you pull.
Chemical control is often a better option for larger English ivy infestations. If the English Ivy you're looking to treat is growing on a building or other non-soil medium, chemical treatment may be the best option. Treatment of this plant is most effective between October and March. Using a broadleaf specific foliar spray after the first frost, but when the temperature is above 50 degrees is highly effective. For larger areas where you’re not as worried about overspray, a general foliar spray may be appropriate. For more detailed information about what foliar spray to use in what amounts, check this handout under “English ivy.”

Alternatives
While this plant is valued as a low maintenance ground cover, there are several other alternatives that can be planted in its place. Wild Ginger, Lady fern, Jacobs’s Ladder, and Maiden Hair fern are all wonderful options that recreate the look of a native Indiana forest. 
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Want to get started in the fight against invasive species? Hamilton County has a group Hamilton County Invasive Partnership (HIP) dedicated to battling invasive species across our county. We are doing this through education and action, and we welcome you to join us. Additionally, the SWCD is offering free on-site invasive species technical assistance for property owners and a tool loan program where you can check out supplies to address invasive species. 
More information can be found here.